06:08:49 - an error occurred while processing this directive From Message jesse Dodge Dakota 4/09/2002 21:15:49 Subject: Heater blowing cold air IP: Message: I have a 97 5.2 that is blowing cold air when on heat under every circumstance. I have changed t stat flushed the whole cooling system still no heat. I saw a post that other people have had the same problem if anybody has solved this problem please let me know Jim Dodge Dakota 6/01/2002 06:58:35 RE: Heater blowing cold air IP: Message: Have you checked the heater coil. I have seen this before in other vehicles, so you might check that. If thats not it try checking the cold hot switch when you change it from cold to hot it might not be switching it behind the control panel.
I had a 91 plymouth voyager mini van that was doing this. Hope this helps out some. Jim Knobbyman.GenIII. 6/02/2002 10:55:31 RE: Heater blowing cold air IP: Message: I rode in a 2000 Dakota that was doing that. It would blow hot air at low speeds but then a/c at higher speeds. We had to top off the radiator for it to work correctly.
Haven't had any new problems. Might just check the lvl of your Coolant. '01 Graphite QC 4x4 4.7 3.55 LSD 4.5' Customized Suspension Lift 305x70x16 GoodYear MT/R's -Speed only breaks stuff faster- Bill Smith Dodge Dakota 6/02/2002 21:47:54 RE: Heater blowing cold air IP: Message: check the water control valve in the heater hoses under the hood.
Some of them have a vacume hose that can come off,or its stuck in the full cold mode. This is used to shut off thewater to the heater core when you have the a/c on.it can stick in either direction. We sell them at Auto Zone, I think they're around 20 bucks. Hope this helps. Richard Dodge Dakota 21:31:32 RE: Heater blowing cold air IP: Message: I had my radiator flush,my thermostat change twice and r&r clutch, fan. Still no heat in my truck 1997 Dodge Dakota 6 cyl. AnnaMaria Dodge Dakota 04:09:17 RE: Heater blowing cold air IP: Message: I too am having the same problem.
I have a 91 Plymouth Voyager and when I put the heater on, it just blows cold air and if I drive it for more than 15 mins., it starts to overheat. I have changed the thermostat twice, but that wasn't the problem. Any suggestions?
Also I noticed when the temperature outside was above 55 degrees, the heater would blow warmer and it wouldn't over heat. Could you also maybe give me a roundabout price on whatever you may think it is. (Not sure if it will be worth it) My friend suggested that it may be a censor!
Miller Dodge Dakota 09:58:11 RE: Heater blowing cold air IP: Message: Had the same problem on my 1999 3.9. All I did was following the instructions posted on this site to flush the heater core and my heat returned. This is a very simple problem to fix and doesn't take that long. Hope this helps.
Below is a copy of what I pulled off other posts: Here is an answer to the original question about the posters heater core. It is plugged. I had the same exact problem.
I had flushed out my coolant system several times, but still no real heat coming from the heater. I then finally thought about it and realized the the convential way of flushing out a coolant system does not really flush out the heater core. The problem is that when you flush the coolant system out you normally connect the flushing water to the inlet side of the heater core hose and then backflush the system out through the radiator cap. This works fine for the engine and the radiator, but does not backflush the heater core.
But for less than 99 cents and about 15 minutes you can easily backflush your heater core yourself. 1. What you have to do is get a 5/8 inch female garden hose adapter. This can be purchased at just about any hardware store. Make sure it is the kind that slips inside the garden hose. 2. Then with the engine cool you need to disconnect the outlet hose of the heater core from the engine. You need to do this at the water pump connection, which should be on the driver's side of the engine. Then insert the garden hose adapter into the end of the hose.
3. Then disconnect the heater core inlet hose from the engine connection. On my Dakota this is easily done at the splice that is on the passengers side of the engine. This splice is where you normally connect to flush out the coolant system. 4. Then hook a garden hose up to the outlet hose and turn on the water. Have someone help you turn on and off the water as you flush out the heater core. 5. You will probably have to flush the core for a good 5 minutes to fully clean it out.
Then reconnect your heater hoses as they were and enjoy the heat. Try and collect atleast the first 2 gallons of stuff you flush out and dispose of this according to your local laws. After the first 2 gallons all you should get out of your heater core is dirty water. This should be ok to just dump on the ground but make sure first. And yes - top outlet from heater core goes to engine, bottom outlet to water pump - at least on my '96 3.9 liter. I used to install a Prestone Flush-n-Fill kit on everything I drove.
I got away from that philosophy, and as a result I darn near froze! If you install a kit, do it in the line that goes from the pump to the heater. Then, just clamp the heater hose between the fill connector and the pump to force the water back through the heater, through the engine, and into the bottom of the radiator, and down the drain. Warren Dodge Dakota 1/24/2004 15:57:21 RE: Heater blowing cold air IP: Message: i have a 1977 ford f-100, i changed the thermostat in it and there still was no heat and one of the heater hose was cold and one was hot,is it right to do that.
If not how do i get heat, the water pump is working find. Huh Dodge Dakota 1/25/2004 10:47:52 RE: Heater blowing cold air IP: Message: 1977 Ford? I suggest you get heat by setting the whole thing on fire. Joshua Sniffe Dodge Dakota 2/08/2004 15:40:15 RE: loosing antifreeze IP: Message: i have 2003 dodge 1500 standard pu i keep adding antifreeze but the resivore is dry in 4or5 days?there is no leak anywhere where is the antifreeze going?
Harry Dodge Dakota 2/10/2004 17:51:33 RE: Heater blowing cold air IP: Message: the antifreeze is going out the exhust;) Invictuz Dodge Dakota 3/23/2004 02:29:21 RE: Heater blowing cold air IP: Message: Your block is cracked if your water level is good but you are blowing cold air while running the heater. Timberwolf GenIII 3/23/2004 17:08:57 RE: Heater blowing cold air IP: Message: This thread was started almost 2 years ago guys. I think he probably has gotten the problem fixed by now. Frozen Dodge Dakota 00:03:02 RE: Heater blowing cold air IP: Message: I get cold air on the drivers side and hot air on the passenger side.The mechanic seems to think its the blend door motor but,I told him the two sides are not independently controlled and I can adjust the temp.on the passenger side but,the drivers side is always cold or sometimes luke warm.What is the problem? Shawnwarvet Dodge Dakota 3/14/2006 20:16:59 RE: Heater blowing cold air IP: Message: I just took all the advice of everyone with the reverse flush, when I hit the water, it took mybe 30 seconds for anything to come out. And when it did it was bright reddish ornge rust color.
I bought it off a old man, who never changed the oil or anything. Well needless to say I have put alot into her. She is a red 96 Dakota with the 3.9, with 121,000.
She is in awsome shape. I do have 1 question, she makes a little rattle in the motor, sort of like a valve spring rattle, not to bad, like when you use low oct gas and put a load on her the valves rattle, does anyone got a fix for that. Johnny0454 Dodge Dakota 4/19/2006 01:19:54 RE: Heater blowing cold air IP: Message: About the engine rattle, I think it it is probably the timing chain. The stock chain set has no tensioner, just replace it with a set that has a tensioner. I had the exact same problem on my '93 and now it is fine. Johnny0454 Dodge Dakota 4/23/2006 21:28:35 RE: Heater blowing cold air IP: Message: Thanks guys for the info, I back flushed my heater core and now it works perfect. Thanks again!
Mason Dodge Dakota 4/26/2006 00:22:18 RE: Heater blowing cold air IP: Message: Who thought up this one? If it only blows cold air, it ain't a heater!
Amy Dodge Dakota 13:37:32 RE: Heater blowing cold air IP: Message: I have a 2006 Nissan pathfinder, and my heat blows cold air, when i slow down but gets hot when I'm on the highway or get on it(gas). It strange that it comes and goes like that. Any suggestions??? Trish Dodge Dakota 20:23:05 RE: Heater blowing cold air IP: Message: i have a 97 ford explorer xlt the heater is blowing cold air have changed the thermostat, heater control valve,flushed the sysytem,flushed and backflushed the heater core and still no heat can anyone help?
Little jer Dodge Dakota 22:34:53 RE: Heater blowing cold air IP: Message: only thing left to check is if the doors are opening to let the heat in or if they are stuck closed for some reason.
1999 Caravan with Dual Climate control, there is no heat coming to the drivers side of the vehicle, the AC works great from both sides. I took the control panel off, and tried to 'reflow' some of the solder joints around the slider potentiometer, no help there. I have seen many posts with the exact opposite problem (no heat on passenger side), but have yet to see any as I have described, any ideas anyone?
Here is a picture of the panel that is installed in our Caravan for reference, thanks everyone! The unit has two blend doors. One for the drivers side and one for the passenger. Blend doors are just that, blend hot with cool. If the door is stuck or inoperable it won't change temperature with the control. To Remove: WARNING Make sure to disable the air bag system before doing work on or near the instrument panel.
1.Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable. 2. U he ace keygen mac photoshop. Remove the silencer panel from under the driver’s side of the instrument panel. 3.Remove the ABS control module.
4.Disconnect the electrical connector from the blend door actuator being serviced. 5.Remove the actuator mounting screws and the actuator. After it's fixed you might want to recalibrate it. Or you can try recalibrating to see if it begins working first. CALIBRATION/DIAGNOSTICS TEST ENTRY TO INITIATE TESTS: Set Blower motor ON HIGH Set Mode position to Panel Open all A/C outlets Set Temperature to Cold (Both slide pots if equipped) Depress WASH and REAR WIPER button simultaneously for 5 Seconds (Until all LED's light) RESULTS: All LED's will turn on for 5 Seconds Calibration Test is running when REAR WIPER and INTERMITTENT are alternately flashing. Cooldown test is running if A/C and RECIRC are alternately flashing. Acceptable results is REAR WIPER LED is the only LED flashing.
Push Rear Wiper to exit. Ran the diagnostic / calibration test, still no heat on drivers side.
Went to the bone-yard and got another head-unit ($22), replaced it, ran the test again, same results. Went to Dodge dealer, purchased blend door actuator assembly ($91), changed that today. Ran diagnostic / calibration test, after the test was complete all LED's went out.
Dodge Truck No Heat On Drivers Side
Now, when I move the Drivers side slider from cold to hot, I can hear the new motor moving, but the temperature only changes from cold to warm air (not hot) on the drivers side. When I move the Passenger slider from cold to hot the air coming from the dash is much warmer (ie hot). Grasping at straws, decided to put my original head unit back, ran the diagnostic / calibration test, same exact results. I am now thinking the blend door itself is not moving completely for some reason, anyone have any ideas?
UPDATE: Took the vehicle out last night, while driving through the cold night air, the 'warm' air that WAS coming through on the drivers side vents earlier today while idling in my driveway totally went away, now just cold air on drivers side again. When I stopped at a light for a few minutes, it started to warm up slightly, but never actually got 'warm'. Went outside a minute ago to check the coolant level (I was hoping it was low), but radiator is full, overflow tank is about 1/2. I am getting frustrated, help!!! Decided to change thermostat, no real improvement. So, here's my latest thoughts / observations, would appreciate some comments: When I pulled the old Blend Door unit out, there was a plastic piece that fell off onto the floor of the van as I removed the Blend Door assembly, it resembled a gear cog of sorts. I examined it, it did not appear to be broken or damaged, it looked like it slid onto the shaft that protruded from the back of the blend door assembly.
This part is obviously crucial to proper operation. My initial fear was that upon reassembly I was not sure which way this gear cog was supposed to fit, but as it turned out, it could only fit one way. I also noticed that the shaft protruding from the back of the old Blend door unit was at one clock position, most likely where it decided to fail, while the shaft on the new unit was at a different clock position, most likely the factory default position. I tried to move the shaft on the new motor so its clock position would approximate the old one, but it wouldn't budge, so I decided to put the gear cog on the shaft the only way it would fit, then I installed the new Blend Door Unit, I figured the calibration process would take care of the clock position. So, if the gear cog was installed at an incorrect clock position as I described, is it possibly it is so far off that the calibration process could not realign it? As I mentioned, when I run the calibration process, it terminates without errors. Also, here is more information and another symptom: There are 5 (front facing) vents on the dash.
The drivers side slider controls the air temperature from 3 of those, the 2 in the middle, and 1 that is far left. When I move the driver side slider to HOT, the 1 on the far left stays relatively cool (although not COLD), while the 1 in the middle that is closest to the passenger side actually gets warm (but not HOT like the air coming from the passengers vents when I move the passenger slider to HOT).
This happens whether or not the passenger slider is on COLD or HOT, kind of strange, but maybe another clue? Password Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive. Password: Confirm Password: Email Address The registration process requires you to activate your membership by following a link in an E-Mail that will be sent to you immediately upon completing this form. You must enter a valid email address or you will not receive this activation code and you will NOT be registered. Your E-Mail address is NOT publicly available to anyone as.
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Jeffrey answered 2 years ago About this truck for $6700 and I knew I'd have to put some work into it. So far I've replaced the radiator because there was a crack in the plastic on the side near one of the mounting bolt. I used a new product that uses 'nanotechnology' with aluminum flakes and Kevlar to seal virtually any crack throughout the coolant system, the engine, heads, head gaskets and every other part of the coolant system so I'm pretty sure there isn't a leak. The truck is no longer running hotter than is normal nor is it forcing coolant from under the radiator cap anymore, so that problem has been corrected. Another question, on a different topic, is 'how do I repair an electric window that won't roll up? It's defin still on the track. I know this because it will roll up when it wants to and it won't roll up when it doesn't.
I replaced the master switch (it's the front driver side door on the 2002 Dodge ram 1500 SLT crew cab). The back passenger side window also did the same thing for a while but it seems to have corrected itself. Unfortunately the front window, the drivers window, will not roll up and we're going into the rain season here in California. I've checked fuses, changed out the master switch with a brand-new one and everything works except for the front window on the driver side so I know it isn't the switch.
Any idea what might be causing that? Moparjohn answered 2 years ago the A pillar is the section of the cab that the drivers door hinges are on and extends to the roof,the B pillar is the center of the cab where the drivers door and the pass door meet together, and the C pillar is the rear of the cab.what your gonna have to do is remove the drivers door panel and un plug the window lift motor and test for power and ground when the switch is pressed these will reverse with direction of the switch.or which way the window is going. If you have power and grounds in both directions then the motor is bad.
Drove my car to work today and turned on the heat and noticed it was blowing only cold air. I fiddled with the controls on the screen and the physical knobs, but nothing changed. Then I felt the passenger side vents and those are blowing red hot air out! So one side is freezing cold air, the other side super hot air. So I just closed off the driver's side vents for now and cranked up the heat out of the passenger side vents. I highly doubt this is a plugged heater core problem as the car only has 12,000 miles and one side is still working. I'm guessing this is related to some sort of switch or physical louver/vent that needs to move and is stuck for whatever reason.
Has anyone else run into this? Is there an easy fix without involving a trip to the dealership? I did a little searching on here and it seems like it is either a switch behind the knobs for the heater controls or possibly the actual louver that moves back and forth behind the dash somewhere. Just wanted to get a heads up on the issue prior to taking it to the dealership. I know it will be covered and it's not a huge deal, just a hassle. Carl, yesterday I went in the dealership and had the salesman just do the setup in my car for heat, a/c etc. It was cool yesterday morning and my steering wheel got warm and the seat too, which is nice, but I didn't really need it yesterday.
So I shut it off and then when I shut the car off, ran an errand, and started the car again the same thing happened. So it was on an auto setting to do this. I got that taken care of.
Now, I also asked about electronic upgrades and there are several for my car, but they said I could wait until my next oil change. Have you done any of those? I am not having any problems, so don't need that done.
No Heat Drivers Side Honda
Could this be the problem?? Go in and make them do the electronic upgrade. I can't image that anything should be wrong with your car!!!! This doesn't sound like just an electronic upgrade thing, but if you are going in anyway, doesn't hurt to have this done. Click to expand.That's the first thing I checked. I turned both way down, then both way up.
The passenger side will blow out hot air on 85 while the drivers side blows out cold air at 85. I've hit the Sync button a couple times, played with the knobs, the buttons, etc. It just seems like there must be a switch or physical vent that is not opening/closing properly that's causing it. It's not a huge deal, nothing urgent, just kind of a bummer. But I had an O2 sensor go out on my old R/T at 11,000 miles. Took it in, they fixed it, and no problems for a very long time after that.
Probably just have to take it to the dealer. I wonder if I unhooked my negative battery cable and reset everything if that might sort of reset that switch or whatever controls that as well? Would be free and easy to try I guess. I've messed with the blend door actuators but not on Challengers. There is usually two things that go wrong.
The actuator, which can be a little electric motor or be powered by vacum. Knowing that most newer cars use the electric ones, I'm betting Challengers do also. The other thing that can go wrong is the actual blend door. It can break, they seem to be usually made of plastic, and not move. Of course there is also the electronics that cause the blend door to move, that could also be bad.
I fixed a similar issue on my daughters Impalla. It wasn't fun, it probably only took an hour or two but is seemed much longer. Its one of those things you have to stand on your head. In other words, take it back to the dealer.
I have been thinking about this. Something does not make sense. If you have airflow out of the ducts, as in the drivers side foot well, defrost, and dash, then it is not clogged.
If it is not clogged, then you should have heat as well as airflow. Looking at the diagram in the SM for the air distribution part of the HVAC system. It is all one piece. There are not separate doors for the drivers side and passenger side. For instance the air distribution center only has 1 opening which leads to the Defrost ducts. The ducts then split right and left, like a 'Y'. Here is a general layout.¯¯¯¯¯¯Y¯¯¯¯¯¯.Defrost.¯¯¯¯¯ /¯¯¯¯¯.Dash.
¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯.Air distribution. Heater core. /.Heater ducts So you can see, if there is air flow out both sides, you should have heat on both sides. I'm having exactly the same problem in my '07. I have great air flow at the floor vents, dash vents and the defroster.
But, luke warm heat from the passenger side and no heat on the driver's side. I checked after the drive home tonight, and both the inlet and outlet lines to the heater core are warm/hot to the touch. Does anyone know anything about the flow through the heater core? Could it be that it has two sides and one is blocked? Or, is there an actuator that controls a door to allow airflow in over the core? I'm having exactly the same problem in my '07.
I have great air flow at the floor vents, dash vents and the defroster. But, luke warm heat from the passenger side and no heat on the driver's side. I checked after the drive home tonight, and both the inlet and outlet lines to the heater core are warm/hot to the touch. Does anyone know anything about the flow through the heater core? Could it be that it has two sides and one is blocked? Or, is there an actuator that controls a door to allow airflow in over the core?
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